Integration with Security Lighting?

[Mike2017]

I want to purchase a turret camera for my shed (outdoor) that has an alarm output that integrates with two security floodlights on the shed. I'm wondering about the type of relay I'd need to enable this? I find the Hikvision NVR only puts out 4v, so assume the camera output might be about the same?

Has anyone enabled this integration before and how best to achieve it?
Thanks

 

[JB1970]

I want to purchase a turret camera for my shed (outdoor) that has an alarm output that integrates with two security floodlights on the shed. I'm wondering about the type of relay I'd need to enable this? I find the Hikvision NVR only puts out 4v, so assume the camera output might be about the same?

Has anyone enabled this integration before and how best to achieve it?
Thanks

A 230V AC 6 Amp rated relay with 12V DC coil will do and you could switch the relay with the alarm output from the camera or the NVR.
- Supply the coil of the relay with +12V from a separate 12V PSU
- Connect the 0V from the PSU to the GND on the back of the NVR or camera alarm output
- Connect the Alarm output on the back of the NVR or camera to the other side of the coil

You can then switch the 230V through the relay contacts. "Security Floodlights" - this is where you may have an issue if you're referring to a light with integrated PIR . On older PIR floodlights you could access the wiring to the attached PIR allowing you to wire a manual switch (or relay in your case) between the permanent line and switched line connection at the terminal blocks. Newer LED ones only have a line, neutral and earth connection presented on a pre made cable with no access to the connections, so I doubt you'll be able to do what you're suggesting. It would be very easy to achieve if you were using standard floodlights with separate external 230V PIR as the connections are accessible.

 

[Mike2017]

Thanks - I swapped out the floodlights that has PIR built in to dumb ones without - they are LED so won't draw that much. Just need to set the time on the camera as I won't have dusk/dawn control any more but that's fine. Appreciate the detail regarding the type of relay. Non latching or one with a timer would work best do you think?

 

[JB1970]

Thanks - I swapped out the floodlights that has PIR built in to dumb ones without - they are LED so won't draw that much. Just need to set the time on the camera as I won't have dusk/dawn control any more but that's fine. Appreciate the detail regarding the type of relay. Non latching or one with a timer would work best do you think?

You could've added a standalone PIR to the dumb LED floodlights. You can get them for under £15 - Screwfix/Toolstation probably have them. If you used a standalone PIR you would simply connect the common/normally open of the relay in parallel with line and switched line in the PIR. The standalone PIR would have an adjustable lux level so that you could set the PIR function for dusk to dawn but as the connected relay would be in parallel with the wiring it would bypass that (I think you can also schedule the alarm output). Your lights would then trigger from the external PIR and the alarm.

For a timer it would depend on how you want them to operate. If you look at the options on the alarm output you can set a timer on that output, have it latch or follow the trigger. A timer relay would give you more adjustment but would be (from memory) about 5 times the cost of a standard relay and base.

 

[ptzman]

Instead of using a mechanical relay, use a solid state relay. Operating turn on voltage can be any voltage between 3 to 32 vdc with an output voltage to match your line voltage.

 

[J.J.B.]

I've connected my 2CD2386G2-ISU/SL to an LED floodlight via a photocell using a Solid State Relay (SSR) and it was quite an adventure. First off, the camera doesn't output any current from the alarm outputs, which on the 2386G2 are marked IN|G|A1|B1 on the plug. I figured that G and A1 were the correct outputs but when that didn't work, used my trusty multimeter to check continuity and found that I needed to connect A1 and B1 to close the circuit. These are also dry contacts, so despite having an SSR, I needed a power source to drive the SSR, which was easy enough. So now I have the -ve of the power source connected to -ve on the SSR, the positive on the power source goes to A1 on the camera and the B1 is connected to the +ve on the SSR.
All good so far. Except that all SSRs appear to have "leakage current" even with a "snubber" fitted. So once the photocell triggers the SSR, I get an under driven LED that is then energised to full power when the A1 alarm is triggered, set to intrusion and event line crossing in the camera. It's not an unpleasant effect, similar to those front door lights that are dim when on and brighten up when the PIR is triggered. Plus under driving LEDs doesn't apparently impact their function or lifespan, so I'm not too worried. Now I just have to fine tune the smart events and photocell lux setting.