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Basic question if I may - replacing a network cable RJ45 connector?

Sorry but it's me again, with the same old problem but just to recap, I have a Hikvision DS-2DE4220IW-D 2MP external IR PTZ (12V) PTZ camera on my system and it started to drop out. I kept getting the "NO LINK" message on my screen and after fiddling around with a connector on the ethernet cable in our miniscule loft I got the camera back again. At this stage I was convinced that it was a cable connection that was causing the breakdown in data transfer.

The camera ran for about a week and then suddenly dropped out again. I couldn't get it to work when I tried fiddling with the two RJ45 cable ends that are in the connector (image in #1). I checked the transformer output lead and I have 12V going to the camera.

And so I bought a circuit tester and tested the data cable from the connector in the loft back to the NVR and that was O.K. So then I bought a crimp kit with push-through RJ45 connectors and after a bit of practice on a spare cable I replaced the RJ45 connector on the loft-end of the cable that runs from the connector in the loft out to the camera. But I still had no camera after I had done that. I 'phoned the suppliers and asked if someone could come and fix it for me and they just were not interested ! "We don't do maintenance" !!!

And so I have a couple more questions if I may please. Is it an RJ45 plug on the end of the cable where it goes into the camera ? I searched on-line and even though I found a manual for the camera there were no images of what I am likely to find inside it if I do decide to investigate. I have attached an image of the camera taken from ground level and I can see what looks like an inspection cover on the underside of the camera arm. Is access possible at that point and if so can I detach the cover and find and detach the ethernet cable so that I could run a test between that end and the end that goes into the NVR i.e. the full extent of the cable ?

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give.
IMG_9040 copy.jpg
 
 
The acid test is to fetch the camera down and try it next to the NVR with a short bought patch lead.
Obviously, if all is OK via a factory-made patch lead, then you know that you need to replace / improve your installed cable and connections.

Unfortunately, the testers that we all buy are of very limited benefit.
They simply prove continuity to the pins.
They cannot test the cable and connectors for the stress of the high-frequency data that they are required to carry.
 

The acid test is to fetch the camera down and try it next to the NVR with a short bought patch lead.
Obviously, if all is OK via a factory-made patch lead, then you know that you need to replace / improve your installed cable and connections.

Unfortunately, the testers that we all buy are of very limited benefit.
They simply prove continuity to the pins.
They cannot test the cable and connectors for the stress of the high-frequency data that they are required to carry.
Thank you for the reply. I have bought a drum of Cat5e cable and my intention is initially to put my BPS DIY scaffold tower up to the camera and, having made a Cat5e cable of sufficient length, to run it directly from my NVR, out of the house, along the exterior wall, and up to the camera. as a temporary test for the camera. I will have to put RJ45 connectors on both ends of the cable but I can test them with a circuit tester that I bought. If I still haven't got any data coming back from the camera then I think I shall take the camera down, bring it into the office and having retrieved the 240V/12V transformer from the attic I will set up the camera in my office with very short cables.
I will anchor the camera securely in my workmate and at least I will be able prove once and for all if the camera is O.K.
 
Hi
I wouldn’t bother with the crimping kit or cable.
I bought 2 kits off Amazon and both mostly failed. Then I bought some pass through connectors which made locating the wire much easier but the crimping tool seemed to fail each time or the tester said so. It’s really easy to watch these YouTube videos on a 20” screen but when you’re up a loft or other difficult to get at locations with poor lighting and the plugs the size of your little finger nail and 8 wires to get correct forget it. If you want to have a go practice on a length in good light and see for yourself but you may need an expensive bit of kit to use once.
I’d get cat6 patch cable (which I used to network 5 bedrooms) and any spare coil up and forget it.
Just mended 2 ends to a switch box in my loft using these below VERY EASY and GOOD!
Then I used a small length of cat6 as I needed a bit more length from this to the switch and indicator light now is on.
Male connections also available.
 

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Thank you very much for that. Very interesting. I did buy the crimping kit and could see the advantages of pass through connectors and so bought that type as well. I did have a couple of practices with small lengths of cable and tested them and my tester said that all was O.K. I did actually test the camera in situ with a length of cable from the office to the camera via the outside route and while up there I also tested the line back to the NVR and that seemed O.K. So I bought the camera down, clamped it into the Workmate and coupled it up to the NVR and I could make the PTZ do what it always has done and so having tested the camera and the cat5 cable I thought that it must be the power cable to the camera and that's where the fault was. In the connection inside the camera. A good clean up and renew the connection, put it all back together and hey presto, everything works (and still does - touch wood)

I am very surprised at how the cat5 cable and the power cable are connected to the camera though. Not quite open to the elements but when I pulled it all apart I found lots of dead flies, a dead wasp, and live ladybird !
 
That is a shielded cable. The shielding makes the cables thicker and harder to deal with. Very technically you need special RJ45 ends to connect to the cable so the shielding will work. Pretty much the shielding just makes things a huge pain and is useless for a home installation.

What you will have to do it remove the foil from the wires before you insert them into the plug. That will allow them to make electrical contact. The tricky part is you should also get the outer jacket crimped into the back of the plug to prevent you from being able to pull it out. With some messing around you can pull the outer jack back remove the foil and let the jacket slide forward. There may also be a extra bare wire in the cable you need to cut off.



https://www.cablingstore.us/
 
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